Completed Mummy
Free Patterns

Mummy Jellyfish – Free Halloween Amigurumi Pattern

Free Halloween Amigurumi Pattern
Mummy Jellyfish

free Halloween amigurumi pattern

Halloween is my son’s favorite holiday, he has always been obsessed with monsters. I’m a little embarrassed to admit that at 2 years old, he could better name Halloween monsters than he could zoo animals. That’s why this year I decided to design this free Halloween amigurumi pattern based off of a Mummy. 

I plan on making these monster inspired jellyfish for my son’s preschool class. They’ll be packaged in little treat bags filled with candy to give out at his Halloween Party. I’m sure it’ll be a hit amongst his friends! 

Completed Mummy

Halloween Themed Jellyfish

Here are the completed patterns for other themed jellyfish:
Witch can be found here (free).
(More will be added as they are designed) 

Size: Approximately 9.5″ from top of hat to bottom of longest tentacle. 
Difficulty: Beginner +
This amigurumi uses basic stitches mostly single crochet and half double crochet. At one point you will need to create stitches in the front loops only.

This pattern is written assuming that you know the basics of amigurumi. In some instances, I will go into detail on how to stuff the body parts and how to attach them. For the most part though, this pattern is written in a way that assumes you are familiar with these techniques. If not, here is a great video showing how to stuff amigurumi and how to sew amigurumi pieces together

Completed mummy

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. This is done at no extra cost to you. I only suggest what I personally use or have trust in. Thank you for supporting Thoren’s Corner!


Worsted Weight Yarn – Red Heart BuffRed Heart Aran Fleck Red Heart Grey
Crochet Hook – 3.25 mm Crochet Hook
Safety Eyes – 15mm Yellow Safety Eyes
Stuffing – Poly-fil
Sewing Needle – Yarn Needle
Optional: If you choose to embroider the face instead of using safety eyes then you will need  black embroidery thread


mr – magic ring
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet


Important Notes

Magic Circle – This pattern starts with a magic circle, alternatively you can chain 2 and create the first row of sc into that first chain. Find a tutorial on how to create a magic circle here.

Continuous Rounds –This pattern is worked in continuous rounds without joining (unless otherwise stated). I suggest using either a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to keep track of where one round ends and the next one begins. 

Increases and decreases – When creating amigurumi it is best to make invisible increases and invisible decreases. I don’t specify this throughout the pattern in order to keep it more simple. But in general, it is best practice to always use invisible inc/dec. A tutorial showing you how to do these stitches can be found here.

Stuff As You Go – Add stuffing to your amigurumi as you work throughout the pattern. There will be reminders throughout to stuff but it’s always best practice to stuff as you go. Make sure you are finished stuffing before working too many rows of decreasing stitches. Refer to the video linked above on how to stuff your amigurumi. 

Safety Eyes – Remember that safety eyes are not recommended for any children under the age of three. So if you are creating this project for a young child or baby please embroider the face instead. 

Tension – For amigurumi projects, it is best to keep your tension tight. This creates smaller stitches and prevents stuffing from showing through. If you crochet loosely, it may be best to go down a hook size.
Note: I do use a slightly bigger hook for this pattern than most do when making amigurumi. That’s because I plan on making several of these for my son’s class and using a smaller hook would have hurt my hands too much. 

You are welcome to sell finished items made from this pattern. A credit to “Thoren’s Corner” as the designer is greatly appreciated, but not required. A link back to this post is even more loved! <3 You may not sell or claim this pattern as your own. Do not copy & paste this pattern. Do not use my photos to sell your completed work. 

Completed mummy

Color Abbreviations

Grey  – Body Color
Aran Fleck – Accent Color 1
Buff/tan – Accent Color 2


With body color (grey)
1. mr 6
2. (Inc) x6 [12]
3. (Sc, inc) x6 [18]
4. (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
5. (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
6. (4 sc, inc) x6 [36]
7-12. sc in each stitch around [36]
13. (4 sc, dec) x6 [30]
Insert eye between rows 11 and 12. Use only one eye as the other will be covered with bandages. 
14. (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]
15. sc in each stitch around [24]
Change to accent color 1 (aran fleck) to create the ruffles
16. 5 dc in FLO in each stitch around to create ruffles. You should end up close to 120 dc stitches but the count doesn’t matter as much, as long as you create that ruffle effect. Finish off and weave in ends. 

Completed Head


In Accent color 1 (aran fleck)
1. mr 6
2. (Inc) x6 [12]
3. (Sc, inc) x6 [18]
4. (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing. 

completed base


Make 3 in Color Accent 1 (Aran Fleck) and Color Accent 2 (buff/tan), for a total of 6.

1. ch 36
2. 3 sc in each stitch across until you reach the end of the chain.
fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. 

Aran TentaclesBuff Tentacles

Smaller Tentacles

Make 2 in body color (grey)

1. ch. 36
2. (3sc, sl st) across until you reach the end of the chain.
fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. 

grey tentacles


Long Bandages

Make 2 each in Accent Color 1 (Aran Fleck) and Accent Color 2 (Buff/Tan), for a total of 4. 
1. ch. 52
2. hdc in each stitch across [50]

Long bandages

Short Bandages

Make 1 in each Accent Color 1 (Aran Fleck) and Accent Color 2 (Buff/Tan), for a total of 2. 
1. ch. 27
2. hdc in each stitch across [25]

Note: Later when you assemble the bandages around the head you may notices some gaps, you can easily fill these in by chaining smaller bandages. I do this later during assembly, with instructions below in case you also have to do it. 

shorter bandages


First we will attach the bandages to the head, then the tentacles to the base, and lastly, the base to the head.

Attaching bandages

The most difficult part of this project is placing the bandages. Ultimately, as long as you have the head covered with only a little grey around the eyes showing then you will be fine. It’s best to alternate colors when attaching the bandages (so attach a tan bandage, then aran, then tan, then aran, and so forth). I suggest pinning a few bandages in place at a time and if you are happy with the placement then sew them down. 

Pinned mummy

I first started with a Accent Color 2 (Buff) bandage and placed the starting point on the left side of the eye, going down the back of the head and back around the front on the bottom (photo for reference below). And then I placed an Accent Color 1 (Aran Fleck) beside the first bandage, going around the head and crossing around the eye (as shown above).  

Pinned Mummy

The eye is the focal point of the piece so you definitely want to make sure you get the bandages surrounding it placed first. After this you can begin to fill in the rest of the head by alternating bandage colors. You will want to overlap a few of the bandages to give it that 3D effect. 

top of mummy head

Depending on how you place your bandages, you may need to create more bandages or not even use all the ones you made. That’s fine, as long as your mummy is covered! For me, I ended up with a small gap (shown below), I covered this gap by making a bandage with 5 hdc. Then sewing it into place.

filled in gap

Attaching Tentacles

This part is easier, take each of the tentacles and sew them into the base. I did this by threading one yarn tail through a needle, sending it through one side of a stitch, then threading the next tail and sending it through the other side of the same stitch. Once both tails were on the other side of the base, I simply tied a knot and cut off the excess tail. Easy as that, no sewing! Just make sure that the side with the tentacles is the “right” side of the base, and the side with all the knots is the “wrong” side of the base. 

attached tentaclecompleted larger tentacles

It will look like a mess on the “wrong” side of your base, that’s okay because it will be hidden inside your jellyfish. I placed the larger tentacles evenly spaced around row 3. Then placed the smaller tentacles on the left and right side between two of the larger tentacles. 

tied stringfinished tentacle leg

Attach Base to Head

Place the base and body together and sew along the base into the back loops of the head. Stuff the head more as you go. Fasten off and weave in the ends. 

Finished Mummy

You have completed your mummy jellyfish! I hope you have enjoyed this free Halloween amigurumi pattern. It will make the perfect gift for a child’s Halloween bucket, to give out in treat bags, or even put a rattle box in it’s head to make a rattle for a baby’s first Halloween!

Create it’s friend the witch to complete the set.

mummy witch

If you are having any difficulty with this pattern, or find a mistake/typo, please feel free to contact me. You can email me at or send me a message on my Facebook page here.

For more free amigurumi crochet patterns visit my free patterns page here

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